China 4: now arriving from Ulan Bator

Yesterday was Sunday. I know that because the carpets in the Chengde hotel lifts boldly declared each day of the week. This morning they tell a different story. Apparently announcing weekdays beneath your feet is traditional across China. So if it’s Monday we have a travel day, driving first to Beijing and then taking the fast train to Taishan. Even then, that latter part of the journey will take five hours. Before which we have the joys (and I use the word without irony) of Beijing East Station. Railway stations invariably have a romance entirely lacking in airports — and Beijing East is no exception.

[There are more pictures on their way -- this is being sent from a slow and flakey connection in Taishan, with me sitting in the hotel lobby as that's the only place I can get wi-fi, plus we're negotiating the Chines firewall...]

Inside the station there’s a stall selling fiftieth anniversary souvenirs — Beijing East was a major construction project for the Communists in the 1950s. Its architecture has a strong strain of fascist grandiloquence but this is softened by Art Deco flourishes both outside and in, as well the inevitable advertising signs, electronic departure boards and McDonalds fascia.

Turning up at the chaotic area for arriving taxi and car passengers, we shake off the insistent porters and commandeer a super-charged golf cart and red-jacketed driver. She and it take the camera kit, our cases and ourselves through a back channel and security check straight to the platform. Trouble is, we’re now an hour early and quite keen on a coffee. So Ning and I head for the exit, joining a stream of new arrivals burdened with cases and their dreams of the city.

Back inside the station hall our assistance is sought by an Australian who needs to ascertain whether the train arriving from Ulan Bator is running to schedule. Ulan Bator! You don’t get enquiries like that at Clapham Junction. Ning discovers that the iron horse from Mongolia is indeed right on time. Browsing in the bookstore I then come across, alongside the titles featured as ‘Hot Fiction’, a substantial section headed ‘Victory Emotion’. One of the heavily featured authors is Dale Carnegie which suggests that this is the local translation for self-help books. On balance I think I prefer the Chinese designation.

We return to the platform (with coffees) through the Fast Train Departures Hall, itself lofty and large enough to hold a substantial Party meeting. Once aboard, and with the kit safely stowed in luggage racks above our heads, we settle down for the ride. ‘Our train is elegant and comfortable,’ the train announcer is proud to announce over the tannoy . And it is.